rating B+

standout innovative but traditional Lambrusco specialist

about Licinio Fontana founded the estate in 1967, now run by his son Giuseppe who is a larger than life character passionate about making wines the environment and personality in which the grapes are grown, all farmed biodynamically. The winery is based in Montecchio Emilia, about 75km north-east of Bologna. Lambrusco can be a mixed bag, but these wines really taste like Emilia-Romagna, cured meat, and hard cheese. The labels are by a sixteenth-century artist who lived on the estate. Around 7,000 cases annual production.

wines tasted

Nero di Cio ($15)

Named after Licinio’s nickname, this is an unusual blend of three Lambrusco varieties: Malbo Gentile (perhaps a reference to a “softer Malbec”), Maestri (probably called after a local village, Villa Maestri), and the more commonly found Salamino. Aged for three months, for a fruity, round style.

Picol Ross ($15)

This is the only Picol Ross I have ever encountered, a variety so obscure it’s not mentioned in the otherwise exhaustive Wine Grapes. Aged for just three months, it’s bright purple in appearance, it’s dry and meaty, fresh, lightly tannic, and a perfect food wine.

website https://www.tenutalapiccola.it/

email info@tenutalapiccola.it

phone +39 0522 864 712

address Via Casoni, 3, Montecchio Emilia